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Napa Valley is ubiquitous for California wine country. But if you want quintessential, a mere 30 minutes to the North West, separated by a spine of breathtaking mountainous beauty, is Sonoma and all of Sonoma County.
Like Napa Sonoma is synonymous with wineries and vineyards, but Sonoma hassomething Napa lost years ago, local innocence. Downtown Sonoma is a quaint square with fine shops, fine dining and fine lodging, and the charm that arrives when small proprietors are the gathering place for the locals, and the hospitality offered outweighs the hospitality taken. The square itself is a warm grassy park well shaded by century old trees ringed by small shops, a few antique dealers, and handful of restaurants ranging from bar to grill, luxury to lunch spot.
Murphy’s Irish Pub Tucked down an alley right off the square in downtown Sonoma is Murphy’s Irish Pub. Crowded and loud like any good pub is we were heartily welcomed to sit at a small round table next to the band, as if we were long-time friends of regulars seated along the walls. Murphy’s Irish Stout on tap competed heartily against Boddington’s (also on tap) and eventually my order for the evening. Yes I was in wine country, but the essence of the pub won me over and beer it was for me. Pint in hand the menu was typically of a pub, fish ‘n chips, shepherd’s pie, beef stew with soda bread, but the gourmet atmosphere of California was not without its influence. The calamari steak with lemon caper sauce was fantastic (had I been hungry on our second trip I probably would have eaten it twice that week) and unlike anything I’ve come across in a pub before. Remarkably it suited the joint well grilled dipped in egg as you would french toast. The steak was surprisingly large considering my entire calamari experience to date was with the fried appetizer type dipped in marinara sauce. Complimented quite well by the Murphy’s (I was driving, so I only had one) I enjoyed the dinner as much as I did the atmosphere; or was the atmosphere as terrific as our dinner?
A second trip back to Murphy’s later that week included that previously rejected pint of Boddington’s, pub chips, and the local trivia night. We fended off the evening chill under one of patio umbrella heaters and, relived the events of the week to that point, and played trivia comparably to how my grandmother always played wheel of fortune – loudly to herself and with passionate disagreement with the actual competitors. The service was typical pub style, I didn’t see an order pad carried accept in an apron, the staff was quick and efficient and friendly sans obsequiousness, as you’d expect in a true to the title Irish Pub. In ‘N Out Number 2, animal style without onions is always my order at In ‘N Out, not like the other two choices are far removed (the double double or burger without cheese). Food prices in Sonoma are high so we made the trek to Napa a couple times for the epitome of Californian (all of America in my mind) fast food. Unfortunately for us, there isn’t an In ‘N Out in Sonoma, probably because, good for our honeymoon, Sonoma is not a large town and therefore not a good market. Come to think of it, I don’t recall seeing any fast food of any kind in Sonoma. 30 minutes may seem like a haul for fast food, that is unless you’re not from CA but find yourself within driving distance of an In “N Out. If that is the case, 30 minutes is not too far to drive for a “simple” hamburger and fries, for there is something magical about the food that comes out of those red and white restaurants.
For starters, that special sauce that McD’s used to sing about in the 80’s, that sauce is nothing but salad dressing but whatever tops your burger when it’s done animal is the “special” sauce McD’s should have used. But what gets me, aside from the scrumptious treatment given the beef patties, is that the fries were whole potatoes mere minutes before their ordered. Yes, In ‘N Out cuts and cooks their fries in the store, and when it’s busy that can mean as you place your order, your fries are being cut. We watched with awe for probably 10 minutes after stuffing our bellies with the sloppy goodness as potato after potato, all measuring at least 8 inches in length, was fed into the cutter and prepared to drop into their 100% cholesterol and trans fat free vegetable oil. It was a beautiful sight. This is the first in a multi part series of reviews on the California Wine Country by TuesdaysTraveler reader Tim M. Check Tim's personal blog here. Discuss this review on our TuesdaysTraveler Forums. |